Center Post Construction
I started on the center post and wiring.
After a couple of off results I calculated the cutting and stripping to get it right the first-time-every-time. The overall length of the cable to make the jumper (before prepping) is the length of the jumper desired, plus 3".
You then carefully strip the outer jacket 1.5" back from each end. The length of the remaining jacket should be exactly the length of the finished jumper minus 1.5". When you finish prepping the assembly and have added the ring connectors you will find they are (should be?!!) the correct distance apart.
Be careful when tugging on the inner conductor, you can move the dielectric and the center conducter inside the braid. It is possible to pull it back into position. Y'all been warned.
Finished 4" jumper with crimped and soldered connectors, 1 down 4 more to go!
Details of joint between sections. My plan is to snake the whole assembly down the inside of the mast.
Here is the center assembly ready to insert up the post. I will be doing a test fit momentarily.
Close-up of the lashing method.
Here is the detail on my version of the center post distribution network. The Split conduit is impossible to get here in the Phoenix valley and I did not want to own 20' to get the 4' I needed.
I elected to build the cabling inside a separate 1.5" Schedule 40 PVC tube. Mounting the tube on the center post is what I am showing here
1.5" cap and 1" coupler used to make the mounting. I split the 1" coupler lengthwise and then belt sanded a flat on both parts.
Remove the flashing and then solvent weld the two parts together. Top cap shown here, before and after welding. Bottom mounting is similar, just uses a 1.5" coupling instead of a cap.
Top end mounting detail
Bottom end mounting detail.
Once the position is determined the clamps can be removed and small sheet metal screws can be used to reduce the amount of metal in the area and improve the look.